The Atlas Expedition: 1400km across the Atlas from the Mediterranean to the Sahara
“God creates dinosaurs – God destroys dinosaurs, God creates man – man destroys God, man creates dinosaurs…” Ian Malcolm, Jurassic Park
On 20th August 2020, I am off on the final leg of my epic exploration of the whole of Morocco. This is the third part of my trilogy, and if it is anything like Lord of the Rings, I am in for a tough time. The good news is that Brahim and Addi are joining me again and Ali is coming too. He is entrusted with negotiating with the authorities in these difficult Covid days. Three of my 6 trusty camels will be with us: Hamish (and yes he is my favourite) Hector and Sausage and we will have three new boys joining the gang. Name ideas welcome – they have to be Scottish and male but apart from that knock yourselves out. I am considering a Tarquin.
It is always hard to estimate the distances, especially as we may change route if we come across unforeseen obstacles, but at the moment we are estimating we will walk around 1400km from Nador on the Mediterranean coast through the Rif mountains, across the remote and little-explored Rekkam plateau on to Toundout, the lair of the dinosaurs, ending at the Dam of Gold in Ouarzazate where my mission began. It will take between 60 and 78 days.
The Draa and Sahara Expeditions
I’ve already covered nearly 3000km over 6 months: becoming the first woman to walk the length of the Draa River (The Draa Expedition) and then continuing on from Oued Chbika on the Atlantic Coast to the Mauritanian border (The Sahara Expedition).
It has been an extraordinary journey for us so far. I never dreamed that it would be so rich, so varied, so full of discovery and so hard. We discovered a lost city, uncovered the graves of the giants of the Draa, escaped the clutches of quicksand and walked in fear through landmines. This time, though, the big prize is dinosaur traces – I am going in search of dinosaurs.
I’m always asked what the aim of the expeditions are and although, of course, I really hope I do find some dinosaur remains, the underlying aims of all my journeys are summed up beautifully by Maya Angelou, “Perhaps travel cannot prevent bigotry, but by demonstrating that all peoples cry, laugh, eat, worry, and die, it can introduce the idea that if we try and understand each other, we may even become friends.”
Water, water everywhere
Also, at last on my march across Morocco, I should have plenty of water. An over-arching theme has been to look at the effects of climate change on the environments I have passed through and on the peoples that live there. North Africa is drying out and climate change and social change are ending the nomadic way of life that has existed for millennia. In the Sahara, animals and plants are disappearing along with the humans as the water becomes harder and harder to find. I want to tell that difficult story alongside the really fun adventure tales.
I will also be seeing how Corona has affected the inhabitants of these remote villages and regions. The world has changed but has that change reached these far places?
Having to factor in Corona has been a huge headache for the team – especially my Expedition Organiser, Jean-Pierre Datcharry Désert et Montagne Maroc and Dar Daif. He has spent nearly two weeks on the road, meeting with local authorities in the provinces we will walk through, reassuring them and explaining our ambitions. We will be taking good care as we go: wearing masks whenever we meet people. I finally got my test this morning after seven hours of waiting – and it wasn’t as unpleasant as I thought it would be. For myself and the men, it is the uncertainty that has been difficult and still is. We are about to go off for a couple of months but it is still possible to be stopped at any time. It is hard to live with that and has brought a new dimension to the whole experience.
Dinosaurs – the big ticket item
So, why dinosaurs? Well, Morocco is a dinosaur and fossil hunter’s heaven. The climate, geological characteristics and lack of urbanisation have created the perfect environment for the preservation of dinosaur remains. Scientists have been able to build up a fantastic picture of life 95 million years ago from their research into the Kem Kem beds in the east of the country.
Dr Susannah Maidment from the National History Museum, recently found a new genus of the Stegosauras dating from 168 million years ago which she named Adratiklit boulahfa, meaning “mountain lizard” in the Berber language. It is instantly recognisable by the plate-like bones protruding from its spine and spikes on its tail. Susannah has been giving me practical advice for my hunt, “Ask the locals, wherever you are – and take lots of photos!”
The landscapes
This expedition will go through wildly different landscapes. It begins in the verdant, alpine scenery of the Rif where water will not be a problem. The oak and cedar forests here are the habitat of the native (and endangered) Macaque monkey. Then, the desert begins with a 100km crossing of the Rekkam plateau which lies at 1400m – higher than Ben Nevis. Turning further west, we will gain height as we reach the highest villages in Morocco at 2600m – very high for the camels – and go on to the Lakes of the Bride and Bridegroom at Imilchil. Our last little flourish is when we skirt the southern foothills of the Atlas to end at the Dam of Gold where they had their first bivouac of the entire Morocco expedition in January 2019.
Sponsors
I am writing this on the evening before we get in the car and head up north. It will take us just two days – amazing when you think how long it is going to take to get back! I am full of excitement, mixed with a bit of trepidation and a lot of gratitude to my sponsors who have stood by me in spite of the economic ravages of Corona. I am so proud to be sponsored by:
CRAGHOPPERS who are also supplying all my hiking kit.
NTT DATA UK Diversity and Inclusion Team.
The whole trilogy of expeditions has been organised by Jean-Pierre Datcharry of Désert et Montagne Maroc and Dar Daif who has over 40 years of experience in the field and has explored all over North Africa himself.
Please, do follow me. All my links are here below and it is always lovely to receive messages when I am on the road and I like sharing them with the men too.
Instagram: @aliceoutthere1
Twitter:@aliceoutthere1
Facebook: Alice Hunter Morrison Adventures
Podcast: Alice in Wanderland
Wish us luck and Godspeed!
The camel should be called Robbie.
God speed indeed my friend – all thoughts and prayers and love and support go with you xxx
Thank you!
oh I agree with that name it’s my maiden name from the Robertson clan
Alice, I look forward to following you on your expedition to find dinasours. Have a great one! Take good care!
Wish you all, from the bottom of my heart, good luck, trust, confidence, courage and lots of joy, satisfaction, happiness…
Wish you Light and blessings from heaven
Thank you!
Dougal…….your camel should be called Dougal!
Tarquin is too posh…..you don’t want Hamish falling out with his Scottish counterpart en route!
Best of luck…..rihlat amina.
Best wishes
Annette
You have a point!!!
Alice
Wishing you another epic safe and fantastic adventure
Looking forward to reading all about it
Do consider naming one of the camels Angus
A fabulous name
Good luck Alice! Safe travels.
Got some ideas for camel names, from a Scottish name list with meanings:
Errol – This name means wanderer
Cameron – Means crooked nose (in case one of them has one!)
Aillig – A person from a rocky location
Armstrong – Means a man with strong arms (well camels are strong …)
Reade – Someone with red hair (any redheads amongst them?)
Grant – Means large (camels are big!)
Irvine – means beautiful (those big lashes!)
Jockie – Means God is gracious
Well they are some ideas anyway.
God speed Alice! xx
I love them!!! X
Happy hunting Alice.
May the Gods be with you.
And the Voice if God too….
Good luck on your new adventure, I can’t wait to follow your progress online. Regarding a name for a camel, you might consider Struan, which is my son’s name and means ‘stream’ in Scottish. It would be fitting considering you will have easier access to water on this journey.
Safe travels, Alice!
I like the meaning and it’s a fab name!
Kenzie is a brilliant name for one of your camels
Have a fab time Alice can’t wait to buy the book x
What about Duncan, Malcolm and Macbeth or when you get to know them, Duncy, Malky, and Mac!
good luck Alice! i will really enjoy following your travels and dream of being there myself one day – next year hopefully- as all our trips to the Kasbah cancelled now
Good luck on your epic trip in search of dinosaurs! I will share this with my 13 year old grandson to follow your expedition. He is homeschooling in FL and can travel along side you in your journey to learn much. Safe journey and blessings bountiful to you all! Xx
Name: Adair
What a great adventure. Cant wait to participate via Insta and hope to hear from you as much as possible. I have crossed Morocco by car 40 years ago. What a beautiful country. Right now i am reading your book „adventures in Morocco“ and on page 8 i find out that we both spend our first night in an Marrakesh Riad at Jacqueline’s Riad Samsara.
Wish you all the best for this incredible trip. Stay safe and healthy with your friends and the
How great that we both have the experience of Riad Samsara! Enjoy the book and please do write me a review
I will… take care of you and have fun
Will be thnking of you and following yuo on Facebook. Do so hope it works out for you and all your team. Keep safe.
Have a wonderful adventure keep safe and maybe I will see you sometime trekking in the Middle Atlas at Agelmam Agziza and Sources Oum Rabia my favourite places
bravassima amazing explorer
i asked my self how many gods prophets & Angeles was there when dinosaurs plays and dances around atlas mountains & rivers
by the way: the camel Hamish is it bioecological and polygamous
And here she goes again!
Wishing you a good time and success in your search for the dinosaurs.
Good luck Alice. It will be amazing and you are amazing in your adventures and the work you are doing to the highlight this disappearing world. For a name for a dignified camel, I quite fancied Farquhar, but no one will understand it. Take care and look forward to following the blog. Cx
Farquhar is a hot contender