Crossing Saudi Arabia on foot 40 days in and I have to give you an update on our camels Juicy and Lulu. I have been alternating this blog with the podcast and if you were listening last Thursday, you will have heard how we had to leave them together at a herder’s encampment.

Lulu hurt her leg when she did her mad dash in AlUla and started limping. We didn’t want to take her into the midst of the desert in this condition and thought to go on with Juicy alone but when we separated them, they cried desperately for each other. Juicy would not leave and kept trying to get back to Lulu and Lulu was calling for her.

Heart rending cries

So, of course, we kept them together and we went on. A week later, I went back to check on them with Khalid who heads up Mallah AlDoroub who are our team.  Lulu had had a visit from the vet and a week of shots and complete rest but her legs were still a bit swollen although she was standing firmly on all four. Juicy and she had been very well looked after and were calm and happy to see us. I had brought oranges as a treat. They recognised me as soon as I got out of the car and called.

We decided the best thing was to send them back to the farm in Riyadh to fully recover for stage 2. I was so sad to say goodbye but also so relieved that they are both well and being properly cared for.

A lot of this week has been following the track of the old Hejaz railway which is now being renamed for the provinces it runs through like AlUla. It is a magnificent track through wide wadis giving on to jagged hills that turn pastel pink or blue as the sun sets. The region is almost uninhabited and so there is glorious peace. 

Exploring

It has been days of exploration of old Ottoman forts and stations which used to guard the pilgrims and troops who rode the train. It was a very short-lived project, only running between 1908 and 1920. It is where Lawrence of Arabia fought the Ottoman troops during World War 1 and the Arab Revolt. Planned to run from Damascus to Mecca, it only ever reached Madinah. But what a magnificent line it was. we are lucky because Alan is a fund of information on it.

Shaya and I didn’t know whether to look up or down on this part of the expedition. The views were so immense but if we watched our feet, we came across lots of fascinating bits of railway infrastructure (which we always put back) and had that thrill of discovery.

Ooh, Harry Kuril

We also had the pleasure of a guest, Harry Kuril, who is a veteran hiker having done 1000 miles on the Trans Caucasian Trail came for a day and we liked him so much we made him stay for three. He quickly joined in my and Shaya’s two o’clock walking madness sessions as we all impersonated chimpanzees and he also brought us delicious honey. He is going to make a map of the expedition for us to share and we hope he also joins us on the next leg.

We are getting so close to our goal now. Over 800km done.

Walking Saudi – 800km done

Follow the adventure of crossing Saudi Arabia on foot on the podcast, instagram, and facebook. We are generously supported by the Saudi Tourism Authority – check out their Visit Saudi website – and the Royal Commission for AlUla. Listen here for the special on AlUla.